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RVPowerCalc

Solar calculator

RV Solar Charge Time Calculator

Quick answer

Charge time is the energy deficit divided by real array output. Replacing 1,000Wh with a 400W array at a 0.75 derate takes about 3.3 hours of good sun, which is most of a short winter solar day.

Your numbers

Results update as you type. Nothing you enter leaves your browser.

Result

Peak sun hours needed 3.3 h
Real array output 300 W
Charging current at 12V 25 A

The formula

hours = deficit Wh / (array watts x derate)

This is hours of PEAK SUN, not hours of daylight. A winter day in the Pacific Northwest may contain under two peak sun hours despite nine hours of light.

The figures shown above are computed with these exact inputs: Energy to replace 1000 Wh, Array size 400 W, System derate 0.75.

What this calculator assumes

Some of these are published standards and some are conventions. They are not the same kind of number, so each one is labeled.

AssumptionKindWhere it comes from
Solar System Losses: 0.75ConventionCommon derate for real-world array output against nameplate rating

Components that match this result

Every card below is in the page source. The calculator re-ranks them against your numbers and marks anything that falls short of what you just calculated.

Frequently asked questions

How does the solar charge time calculation work?
hours = deficit Wh / (array watts x derate). This is hours of PEAK SUN, not hours of daylight. A winter day in the Pacific Northwest may contain under two peak sun hours despite nine hours of light.
Are these figures published standards or rules of thumb?
Both, and the page labels which is which. Conductor ampacity, resistance, voltage drop limits, overcurrent sizing factors and device ratings come from NEC, ABYC and NEMA and are labeled as published standards. Depth of discharge, solar derate factors and inverter efficiency are planning conventions with no standards body behind them, and are labeled as conventions.
Why does this calculator sometimes say there is no answer?
Because there genuinely is not one within the published tables. Rather than extrapolating past the end of an ampacity table or inventing a figure to fill a gap, the calculator returns nothing and explains why. A run that is too long for the current at 12 volts needs a shorter run or a higher system voltage, not a made up wire size.
Do I still need an RV technician if I use this?
For DC work many owners do their own installation, and these figures are the ones that work is sized from. Permanent AC wiring, anything connected to the shore power inlet and anything behind the distribution panel is work for a qualified RV technician or a licensed electrician. Sizing a circuit correctly and installing it safely are two different jobs.

Researched guidance, not professional advice. These results are planning figures from published standards and manufacturer specifications. Never exceed a conductor's rated ampacity, fuse every positive conductor close to the battery, never run a generator in an enclosed space because carbon monoxide is lethal and odorless, and have permanent AC wiring done by a qualified RV technician or licensed electrician.